Betta Fish Bubble

How to Feed a Betta Fish

Betta fish are beautiful and fun to have as pets since they can provide enjoyment for the whole family. Therefore, to keep them happy and healthy is to feed them well and knowing how to feed Betta fish  is a great step in making their livelihood worthwhile. Feeding Bettas is not as easy as you may think as it takes a little skill and knowledge. If you would like your Bettas to have good times, feed them well with various food types.



Below are some instructions on how to feed Betta fish

Make sure that the Betta fish have clean and fresh water supply every time. As you already know that water is what keeps the fish alive, always supply fresh and clean water to their tanks. Ensure that you keep the tanks tidy, removing any impurities as this species is susceptible to disease and death brought about by waterborne bacteria. As you feed the Betta fish, you have to make sure that they see the food entering the tank. Betta fish like eating food at the top of the tank and from the top of the water column, so if they see the food, you drop them to their noses.

Betta feed should include specific food pellets since they enjoy frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp. Make sure that the Betta is given 6 to 7 brine shrimp at a go and as long as all have eaten, give them smaller second portions. So every time you feed Betta fish you will enjoy every bit of it. Pre-spawning is the best time when Betta fish should be fed because during this time they can eat black worms, mosquito larva and fruit flies. The fish should be fed no more than four times a day.

Newborn Betta fish need to be encouraged to eat only after they are five days old. Once they are five days old, you have to feed them several times a day with boiled egg yolk or with baby brine shrimp. Make sure that all the fish have eaten by distributing the food evenly in the tank.

Feeding Betta Fish

Feeding your Betta fish

So what do you feed Betta fish? Well, they really aren’t that fussy at all, although there are some things to avoid and some things that really do help improve the colour and health of betta fish.


The most common thing people feed their Betta fish are flake foods.

These are essentially very thin flakes which contain a large percentage of protein. Fish need protein for growth and colour. These flakes can float, sink and are easily crumbled up for feeding smaller fish. Try to find fish flakes with a cleaner water formula if possible.




You can also find live and frozen food for Betta fish.

This comes in either a small watertight bag from your local aquarium store, or in frozen form. You can increasingly find sachets of live food mixtures and freeze-dried daphnia. These are all good ways of getting nutrition into your betta fish, especially frozen foods. Freeze dried foods are exceptionally cheap and easy to find.

You can catch or even culture your own food for feeding betta fish and your Betta will thank you for a fresh supply of live food as this is the best thing to feed Betta fish. Live food is both stimulating and full of protein, not to mention fresh and natural. All fish have an instinct to try to catch and eat any organisms smaller than themselves therefore live fish foods are perfect for stimulating and feeding your fish.

  • Daphnia are also known as water fleas and can be collected by shining a torch onto a pond at night, or purchased from a store and bred very easily.
  • Brine shrimp and bloodworm are also good things to feed Betta fish and can be easily purchased and cultured to provide an endless supply. Brine shrimp eggs can be purchased relatively cheaply and can be hatched using only a 500ml bottle, a teaspoon of salt and some brine shrimp eggs. There is nothing more to it, providing you keep them somewhere light and warm.


You mustn’t ever attempt to feed other fish, dead or alive, to your Betta. Not only is this cruel, but you cannot determine whether or not such a fish is diseased or not. You should also refrain from throwing bread into your Betta fish tank as this does them no good at all.

Fish food is really quite cheap and a good quality diet enriched with live foods will help your Betta fish to display amazing colours, grow strongly and remain healthy.

Breeding Betta Fish

Breeding Betta fish is more than just sticking a male and female Betta together in the same tank and hoping for results; it’s about clever preparation and planning, as well as some small financial outlay. In this article, we will be looking at how to breed Betta fish, how Bettas breed and what you can do to make yours breed successfully, as well as a section on how to raise the fry and selecting the right fish for spawning.



Selecting and conditioning Betta fish for breeding

Before you can breed Betta fish you will need a good pair of Bettas to breed. If you are just thinking about breeding Betta fish and have little experience in keeping them, you must gain experience in keeping Bettas beforehand.

You should select a Betta fish to breed that is healthy, of a good size for their age and not too old, ideally from a reputable dealer. You should also decide what colours you want to be breeding and if you are looking to make money from your Betta fish breeding program, finding out the most popular Halfmoon Betta colours and those that are in the lowest supply are both useful undertakings before setting up your Betta fish breeding equipment.

Once you have selected some healthy male and female Bettas, it’s time to condition them. This is the process of bringing them into the healthiest state possible and ready to breed. This involves keeping the water very clean and free from ammonia, nitrates, nitrites and any decaying matter. You must also ensure their diet contains live food.


Preparing for the fry



That’s right, despite the fact that Betta fish fry are very small, you need to know where you’re going to put them once they appear or else things could get messy. Don’t forget that Betta fish can lay up to 500 eggs in one go, and if only half of these are males, you’ll end up with 250 angry male Bettas cooped up in a small breeding tank, sounds like a massacre.

Caring for Betta fry requires space and you must establish a good fry tank before breeding Betta fish. This ought to be a larger tank with divisions, either made by hand or bought. There are simple tank dividers on sale and your local aquarium store staff should be able to help you. Such a tank can only support your Betta fry if it is filtered, and this should be a sponge filter only, as power filters will mince your fry in their impellers.


Betta fish breeding

Now comes the breeding process. With everything ready, its time to set up a breeding tank and introduce your Bettas to each other. Your breeding tank should be clean and have no substrate. No plants or decorations are necessary either. A gentle sponge filter would be best in this tank. The temperature could do with being a little higher than room temperature in your Betta breeding tank. Some people believe that adding catappa leaves to the breeding tank will encourage Betta fish to breed. This does have some truth in it however it is the antibacterial properties of the leaves and the effect they have on the water that results in better Betta health and therefore leads to reproduction.

You should keep the male and female Betta fish separate, yet in view of each other, with a glass or mesh divider for example, until it is clear that they are both ready to breed. When the male Betta begins to build a bubble nest, you know its time to make some fry. This is the point at which you should release the female Betta fish so that she can mate with the male. Those that have witnessed this process would agree that the Betta breeding ritual can seem a little aggressive when the pair appear to engage in a spot of fin nipping but this is perfectly normal as the Betta pair will soon commence breeding after this ritual.


After the Betta pair have finished breeding

After the breeding has taken place, and when the female has retreated from the bubble nest, you should remove the female Betta and place her in a very clean tank as she will be slightly injured from the breeding process; this is perfectly normal. The male Betta should be kept in the tank with the bubble nest; he will probably continue to pick falling eggs up and reconstruct the nest for a while, and should only be removed when he has finished doing this.


Caring for Betta fry

Before Betta fry have even hatched, you must ensure you have a ready supply of very small food for them. One good food source is a micro worm culture which can be maintained and cultured at home with very little space or effort. Banana eels are also a good source of food, as it egg yolk. Whatever you do, don’t start the process of Betta fish breeding before you are prepared to look after the fry or else they will perish, wasting your efforts.

You can also buy ground up fish food which is satisfactory most of the time but expensive in the long run. An even more effective source of Betta fry food is infusoria. You can make your own infusoria by leaving a jar of water in direct sunlight with some grass cuttings in the water. Believe it or not, this will produce tiny organisms for you to feed your Betta fish fry with. Newly hatched brine shrimp are very cheap and easy to feed to fry as well.

As soon as reasonably possible, you must remove the Betta fry from the breeding tank and place them in a fry raising tank where they wont be eaten by adult fish. Remember only sponge filters and well established sponges.

The space consuming part is when the male Bettas begin to grow to the size at which they become aggressive. At this stage you must separate them, and be prepared to either house over 100 young Betta fish for every breeding pair or cull extensively to keep only the best specimens. It is better to cull deformed fry than to allow them to grow into unhealthy adults. The kindest way to do dispose of Betta fish fry is to put them in a watertight container then freeze them, so that they gradually lose consciousness.


Where to sell your Bettas

Once your Betta fry have grown and they are looking more and more like a fully sized fish, you are going to have to find an alternative home for them. You should think about arrangements with distribution channels, such as your local aquarium shop, or online sales before you breed your Betta fish. Alternatively, given their relative ease of care, you can try selling your Betta fish amongst family and friends, or on local classifieds. Betta fish breeding can be profitable but a lot of space and investment is needed beforehand.

Betta Fish Disease – POPEYE Treatment

Betta Fish POPEYE Causes

Most of the fish diseases are caused due to bad water conditions. Again Popeye is due to poor water condition,if water is kept clean you have maintained good water condition, he is not very likely to get Popeye. Popeye is a bacterial infection usually caused by poor water condition. Popeyes are external sign that something inside your Betta is going very wrong. For example, tuberculosis will sometimes result in popeye. In that case, the popeye may not be curable or even if it gets better the fish will die (because tuberculosis is not curable and always kills its host). In short the fish will have died, not of the popeye itself, but because of the more serious disease that triggered it.

So as the water becomes contaminated and saturated with excrement, leftover food, and as the rocks start eroding, as the plants start decaying there is a very good chance that you fish might get popeye.

One or both of Mr. Betta’s eyes start bulging out. In about 2 to 7 days the eye might look so bulged that you will be afraid to look at your betta. Most bettas make a full recovery from it and look normal again, as if nothing had happened. Only some of the popeye cases are caused by the terminal diseases mentioned above and will result in your betta dying. The rest will heal nicely if caught early and treated aggressively. During popeye, betta may be less active, may stop eating.

Popeye is usually not fatal and Mr. Betta will often fully recover. If not treated in time, he may lose an eye. To treat Popeye, clean the tank, change the substrate, throw away all the diseased plants. fill in fresh water. Add the antibiotic Ampicillin to his water. This medication usually comes in capsules. A full capsule usually treats 10 gal of water. So for a 2 gallon of water, open the capsule and take the right proportion of powder and sprinkle on jar water. Please do not over medicate as it might cause adverse effects on your bettas.

Treat Sick Betta Fish

Fish disease hit very fast anytime. The biggest problem people have when they have a sick fish is that they are not prepared. Some common problems fish owners have are:

1)They don’t catch it early enough,

2)They don’t know how to diagnosis the sick fish

3)They don’t have the proper meds on hand!!

Its important to have a first aid kit because when you beta gets sick, most effective beta medications cannot be found at pet stores, and many of you live in areas where even your fish store will not carry them. Heck, some of you don’t even have a fish store in your town! Ordering them online will take time (several days) before the meds reach you. By then you friend Betta may be long gone. Hence, if you care about your Betta at all, you should create a basic ‘Betta First Aid Kit”

Betta First Aid Kit should have the following:


Effective For

BettaZing -Acts as a Substitute for Bettamax- Anti Parasitic, Anti Protozoan and Anti Fungal) Great disease remover. Very effective against Velvet & Clamped fins. Use anytime you add new fish to tank
Good for bacterial infections
Good for serious bacterial infection
Great for pop-eye and gram positive serious infections also effective on some gram negative bacteria
Maracin 1 & Maracin 2
(anti fungal and antibiotic)
OK for mild infections such as slight fin rots, but not very effective for serious stuff.
Jungle fungus remover
(anti fungal)
Great for fungus infections

Understand Betta Fish Feeding The Correct Way

Think that Betta’s favorite food is a plant root? Think again!. Bettas are carnivorous fish that require foods high in animal protein. Their preferred foods are worms, insects and insect larvae, not plants or roots. Keep your Bettas healthy by feeing them specialized Betta food now and then.



Your betta’s diet should consist primarily of pellets. For special occasions feed frozen or freeze dried brine shrimp or blood worms.

Clean up any extra food that your betta does not eat. Similarly, watch your betta to see if he spits up any food.

A diet high in protein yet varied is important. Flakes, live food, freeze dried, pellets, whatever works best for you, but vary it. Without varity, it may become constipated, which resembles swim bladder disease; the betta can’t maintain its balance. If your betta is suffering from constipation, cook a pea until squishy, peel it, and break it up into betta-bite-sized pieces. Feeding this three times a day and then nothing at all for 1-2 days should clear up the problem.

Though live food may be exciting to watch, freeze dried products still work great. They are safer and free from potential parasites.

Don’t overfeed your betta, no matter how hungry or cute he or she seems! Remember, your betta’s stomach is about the size of its eyeball!